There are a few different variations you can find for the definition of smocking. One of the most accepted ones states that smocking is a piece or area of clothing that has been gathered into tight pleats or folds that are held in place with decorative stitching. A simpler definition describes the gathering of a full part of a garment. English smocking is defined as embroidery on top of pleated fabric.

The fabric is gathered first and then the embroidery is done over the pleats. This type of smocking has been done for centuries; early historical stitching and English smocking embroidery styles have been recorded in paintings from as far back as the 16th century and the Renaissance period. Another type of smocking is known as North American smocking. In this style, the embroidery is done at the same time the pleats are gathered.

The North American style was very popular from the 1930s until the 1960s. Iron on transfers that were shaped like dots were used in the patterns for the sewer to follow as she embroidered and gathered pleats at the same time. The popularity of the English style of smocking surpassed the North American style in the '60s and is still preferred today.

Another style of smocking is called counterchange and it is done on striped, dotted or gingham fabric. When embroidering over the pleats, you can do geometric or picture smocking. Geometric smocking is when the sewer creates patterns and shapes using various stitches. Picture smocking is when pictures are formed using a stacked cable stitch. Today, smocking is very popular when making children's clothing. You can find numerous types of smocking patterns and smocking plates to aid you in developing your own style.